Golden Country: The Clinton stove

There have been odes to many things, and the Clinton stove may be one of the humblest of them

Close-up look at the Clinton stove.

Over the centuries poets have waxed lyrical on a wide variety of subjects. Love and death, war, historical events and personages, youth, beauty, nature, and much more have all been the focus of elegies, ballads, sonnets, pastorals, narratives, haikus, and even the humble limerick.

Odes – a specific type of lyric poem, usually of a serious or meditative nature, and addressed to a particular subject – have been written to a nightingale (Keats), a skylark and the west wind (Shelley), intimations of immortality (Wordsworth), Aphrodite (Sappho), and the Confederate dead (Tate) among other, usually lofty and inspiring, people and things.

However, odes have also been written about much less exalted — even humble — subjects. A case in point is an ode written in February 1938 by an author identified only as “Silvertip” Brown. It is called “The Clinton Stove”, and is a poem in praise of – well, what it says on the label. As an example of the ode it does not reach the heights of Keats or Shelley, but it does illuminate a small corner of South Cariboo history that was of considerable importance to many people over the decades.

The Clinton stove stood in the Clinton Hotel, construction of which began in 1861, when George and Robert Watson thought to build accommodations for the miners who were streaming through the town – then known as 47 Mile House – on their way to the goldfields of the north. It opened for business in 1862, and by 1863 – the year in which the settlement was officially renamed “Clinton” – was advertising its large bar-room, private sitting-room, free beds to people who brought their own blankets, and the excellent cooking of its “culinary department”.

Over the years the building was expanded, with additions including a ladies’ parlour — so that women did not have to mix with rougher elements — and a billiard room. In 1868 the first Clinton Ball was held there, and the hotel quickly became a landmark on the Cariboo Road. It drew words of praise from Sarah Crease, who stopped there in September 1880, and who was not known for her favourable opinion of many of the region’s hotels:

“House very clean and comfortable… . Food very good, delicious butter and cream, bed soft and comfortable. Breakfasted on delicious oatmeal porridge and cream. At lunch [the owner] brought me a plate of soup and entertained me with an hour’s gossip about herself and her neighbours.”

But it was not just the hotel which found itself famous. The hotel’s stove, as old as the building itself, occupied a place of pride in the structure. It heated the building, yes; an important consideration given Clinton’s location. But it also provided a meeting place for visitors and locals alike; a spot to linger, exchange pleasantries, muse over current events, and — as Mrs. Crease’s account makes clear — engage in the delicious occupation of a spot of gossip.

“Just an old, blackened monster – a warm, great, burly stove / I abide at hotel in Clinton, on trail to the treasure trove” begins Brown’s ode. The stove was built “On the banks of Harrison River” he continues, and then transported north – almost certainly in pieces, given the stove’s size – by oxcart. This was in the days before the Cariboo Wagon Road was completed, and the arduous journey would have taken several days. It was a “stove” inasmuch as it had a flat surface on which things could be heated, while a rectangular receptacle on the top of it, with a tap at one end, appears to have been used as a source of hot water.

Over the decades the Clinton stove must have heard countless tales, with Brown noting that sourdoughs, miners, tinhorns, touts, skinners, and trappers had doubtless sat by its side, swapping stories and experiences, triumphs and tragedies. “I’ve stored up tales in millions of mining, romance and lore / I know all this grand old country – stories and tales by the score,” he wrote. “I live today as you see me – a grand old husky pioneer / Dispensing my warmth and comfort, trying the weary to cheer.”

By the 1940s the stove was almost as well-known as the hotel which housed it. Both the building and the stove were featured on postcards, which advertised them as the oldest specimens of their respective kinds in the province. “Nigh eighty years I’ve done service through days of the golden past / Still am I hale and hearty, to duty still holding fast” notes “Silvertip”; and the Clinton stove would almost certainly have continued to “serve the Cariboo need” had not Fate cruelly, and tragically, intervened.

By May 1958 the Clinton Hotel had seen off two rivals: the Dominion Hotel, which burned down in 1908, and the Palace Hotel, which had become a boarding-house in the early years of the twentieth century. In 1958 British Columbia was celebrating its centenary as a colony, and among the festivities was the Centennial Stagecoach Run, which visited communities across the province. On May 14 the Stagecoach Run passed through Clinton, and that night the annual Ball was held at the Clinton Hotel. In the early hours of May 15, however, a fire broke out in the hotel. The manager went from room to room, waking all the guests and telling them to evacuate. All of the guests got out safely, except for one couple and their young child, who went back to sleep after hearing the manager’s warning. All three of them were killed in the fire which, despite the valiant efforts of firefighters, succeeded in burning the Clinton Hotel to the ground and destroying everything within it.

“Just an old rusting monster, yet have I the heart of a king / Romantic days of the Stampede – yet am I able to sing!” concludes Brown’s ode. Sadly, the Clinton Stove is no more; but its song lives on: in pictures, and the memories of those old enough to recall it, and in the words of “Silvertip” Brown. He may not have the eloquence of the great poets, but he has ensured that a part of the Cariboo story will not be forgotten.

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Two men warm themselves by the Clinton stove.

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